hammer jointer planer combo


However, the discrepancies are quite small, and by finding favorite locations for the fence, I have had no problem getting nice square edges on long boards. The feed speed is 6.5 meters/minute (21.3 feet/minute), which makes the three-knife cutterhead at 6000RPM produce 70 cuts per inch, typical for jointer-planers in this class. 2. The system for changing and adjusting the blades on the A3-31 is very good, though not quite the slam dunk of a Tersa. All for you to enjoy for free. Other jointers may require shimming where the table and base castings meeton one side. Make the infeed table parallel to the outfeed table across their widths. Finally, adjust the infeed table so the infeed table and the outfeed table are parallel along their lengths. 5. My outfeed table is parallel to the cutterhead within half a thou across the full width. 1. With some jointers and planers, changing blades is a tedious chore. It is a bit painful. Adjust the height of the outfeed table relative to the knife arc. The manual explains a simple assessment procedure to help get it right and I am happy with the results.

[To adjust this on the A3-31 you have to work on both sides of the infeed table.

If you have done all the previous work as described above, the place of the touch will tell you how the tables are aligned. It is really not a problem though. The result: cha-ching! When considering a new machine or any tool, I first assess the quality of the key parts that cannot be altered by the user but are accessible to direct evaluation. The beds are parallel along their length within .001. 3. Check the parallelism of the cutterhead block to the outfeed table. These can be used to make a consistent projection of the knife in relation to the outfeed bed across its full width.

Furthermore, the beds are heavy and constructed with thick ribbing, as seen above. This step is often neglected. Unfortunately, the Setup Guide, which covers these adjustments and is available as a pdf on the Hammer website, is out of date (copyright 2005). This accessory, which I have found very helpful, was calibrated using the information in the Setup Guide. The planer feed mechanism does not balk with 12 wide boards. Step 4 here describes the details, including for the Hammer. For the reasons explained in this series, I highly recommend a 12 jointer-planer combination machine for the small shop woodworker. Here you will find plenty of serious woodworking instruction, information on tools, shop setup, and wood, along with musings about the craft. Dust collection, as I mentioned earlier, is just wonderful, for jointing and planing. On most jointers, this is adjusted by means of jackscrews in the blade holder. Next: one more installment knife changing and an overview. Some documentation is lacking but help is available. This is easy to do, though a cutterhead lock would make it easier. And here are the nuts and bolts on the A3-31. dewalt joiner (This is not a matter of a difference in the overall projection related to worn versus fresh knife edges.) You could work hit-or-miss to make the adjustment, but with four points of adjustment involved, it would probably be unnerving and cause you to give up, and then tolerate using a poorly adjusted jointer, which will in turn wreak all sorts of ugly havoc on your ensuing work.

This all is excellent, well within Hammers spec of .006, and is an important factor in how accurately the machine can be tuned. Heres the key: the machine performs accurately, consistently, and efficiently. Use the dial indicator jig or place a 12 straightedge on the outfeed table and extend it past the cutterhead just an inch or two over the infeed table. The knife arc should be consistent for all three blades and all across the cutterhead. Bed flatness is excellent. 2. It is adjusted back and forth by using the knob (to the right in the photo below) and sliding the bracket on the extrusion track. Hand adjusted parts, such as the planer bed adjustment are very smooth, and the machine runs with that nice low hum suggestive of quality. That is the answer to the question of how precise these adjustments need to be. This helps a lot in my small shop. It is flat within .001 in all directions and I cannot detect any twist. Observe the dial indicator or use a feeler gauge under the straightedge to check across the width of the infeed table for parallelism of the tables. To maintain a consistent angle, it is important when adjusting the side-to-side position of the fence in use to hold the sliding bracket down firmly on the extruded track while tightening the knob.

However, if it is way off for all of the knives, the outfeed table should be adjusted as a unit. Further, the tables should be flat. Against a Starrett straightedge, the jointer infeed table is within .001 along its length and .002-.003 on the diagonals. The object of all of this is to get the machine to produce surfaces within the tolerances you need for the work you want to do. a3 finewoodworking jointer planer The Hammer manual does not cover this. Make a wooden holder for a dial indicator as shown in the photo. The infeed table and outfeed table are then made parallel across their widths by adjusting the infeed table.



Machining and part formation looks neat throughout, with no ill-fitting components. Thankfully, the machine holds its adjustments very well. This is the reference to which all the other parts must be aligned. Not bad, but having seen the potential in the excellent flatness of the beds, I wanted to improve their alignment. Other jointers may require shimmingwhere the table and base castings meet on one side. 3. Now for a look at the parts and systems of the Hammer A3-31 that can be adjusted and tuned, with particular consideration to the ease, accuracy, and durability of the adjustments. After 2 1/2 years experience with the Hammer A3-31, I heartily recommend it. The methods of adjustment will, of course, depend on the make and model of your machine, but hopefully this will clarify the overall logic of the process. Assess this with the longest, best straightedge that you can find. dewalt drill replacement 18v hammer Calculate the amount of turn required and work from there rather than guessing. Measure the gap as shown in my notes. The front-side adjustment bolts are shown in the photo at the top of this post. Id bet its more than half the machine for half the price. The motor has excellent power and does not get overheated. Online forums, legitimate bloggers, and journalists are welcome to reproduce brief excerpts with clear attribution. The planer table is within .002 along its length and .003 on the diagonals. Again, the correction was made by adjusting only the infeed table. 3. Established in September 2008, this site currently (through May 2022) contains 243,000 words of original content, not including comments, and more than 1300 original photographs. Reading it takes a bit of getting used to because the numerals indicate decimal inches while the hash mark increments are actually metric that approximates imperial. You do not want the tables tipped in toward each other at all (like a V), in my opinion. In my opinion, this adjustment should be done with a one-sided tolerance. Lots of information can be found on this website about jointer-planer combination machines and the Hammer A3-31 in particular. Aim for the tables to be parallel, but a trace of convexity, like the letter A, is OK, but there should be no valley, like the letter V.. Adjust the infeed table using the regular depth-of-cut lever to about the shallowest cut. Click on the little picture below for a full-size version. Methods specific to the A3-31 are entered within brackets.

Here are the steps in tuning jointer tables and knives. For reasons similar to wanting a hand jointer plane to have a flat sole, so should the machine tables be adjusted. Each of the three blades has holes that neatly register on bosses on the blade holder, which is secured in a slot in the cutterhead with four hex socket screws using the provided T-handle wrench. With good technique, snipe is about as minimal as it gets. The entire contents of the Heartwood website, except for the theme elements provided by Wordpress, are copyright Rob Porcaro. The steel drive rollers control the board unyieldingly, yet the indentations made by the infeed roller are shallow enough to disappear when the final pass is very light. The reading is noted when the tip of the indicator is at the top of the cutterhead circle (i.e. The OEM system on the Dewalt DW735 planer was quite easy, and now with the Shelix cutterhead with carbide-tipped inserts installed, changing blades is practically a non-issue. Page 33 of the User Manual shows where it is and how to move it.]. When the machine arrived, the beds were slightly out of parallel to each other across their widths (i.e. I cannot fairly compare it to corresponding offerings from Minimax, Jet, Rojek, Grizzly, and Rikon because I havent used them, and Id bet the $7,000 Felder AD-531 outshines all of these, but I can say Im very glad I have the Hammer A3-31. I always use paddles for face jointing and it is easy to pass the board under the narrow guard, which is height-adjustable using the knob at the far left in the photo below. Use the same portion of the circumference of the cutterhead for all of the readings to negate any imperfections in the roundness of the cutterhead. The cutterhead rotates on its axis. 5. The most welcome feature is that the adjustments hold solidly over time and when converting back and forth from jointer to planer mode. Hey Hammer, how about updating that 2005 manual to reflect the current model machine!]. This is invaluable. OK, I think you can see why I did not include this in my original set of posts! Alternatively, a feeler gauge and the stock of a square can be used but this is awkward. Brutal. Each of each pair of screws must be adjusted by a different amount. 1. 5. The outfeed table is just a hair concave along its length, .003-.004, and the diagonals are off by only .002-.005. 4. As described in detail here, there are several logical steps to adjusting the jointer. Let us first set the context. To make a directed adjustment, rather than by trial and error, there is some geometry required. Fortunately, Hammer makes knowledgeable technicians available by phone who were generous with their time in helping me understand the machine. I get the results I need to make high quality things from wood. The User Manual, included in print with the machine and also available online, is more current and clearly explains assembly, basic adjustments, operation, maintenance, and so forth. Again, calculate the amount needed and work from there rather than guessing.] So, when I installed replacement knives, everything should stay the same, right? Some localized imperfections will cancel out with the procedures described here. 1. So, how is this done on the A3-31? The infeed table starts low and then is adjusted upward to the first touch on the straight edge. Other key components that I cannot directly assess seem very good based on indirect observations and working with the machine. If the tables are out of parallel,it is easiest to retain the outfeed table settings andadjust the tilt of only the infeed table along its long axis. This is what matters. For edge jointing the guard can be adjusted laterally to expose the minimum width of cutterhead. Only now should you turn your attention to the infeed table. By contrast, changing blades on the Tersa cutterhead that was in the Inca jointer-planer was almost unbelievably easy and fast. Setting up the fence accurately went according to directions, though it does take some care. Further, the height of the outfeed table is adjustable to set its overall relationship to the arc of the knife edges.

I then converted that into how much to turn each screw based on the thread pitch. Start by verifying the flatness of the tables. So, really, it is worth deciphering my geometric method. I tested this on a performance basis by planing an 11 3/8-wide board, and by planing two narrow sticks simultaneously sent into the planer at the outer width of it. [The entire series can be viewed here.]. It is easiest to retain the outfeed table settings and make the adjustment only on the infeed table. This is adjustable if ever needed. Next: The finalnext installment in the series will cover tuning and results. in twist) by .006 over the 12 width. This is quite doable but not simple. 2.

4. The width of the outfeed table is then made parallel to the cutterblock. The hinge-side adjustment screws are found under this plate: These bolts must be both be loosened to allow the set screws to move: The method starts with placing a straightedge to extend the full length of the infeed table with a sufficient amount to also have a good register on the outfeed table. At this point, you should have a cutterblock parallel to the outfeed table, three knife arcs also parallel to the outfeed table, and the top of the arcs should be about .001 .002 above the outfeed table. In my machine, the tables were delivered tilted toward each other, like a V, so the first touch of the straightedge was at the outer end of the infeed table. In any case, practical woodworking, not perfection, is the goal. }. 4. By the way, another option is the helical insert cutterhead available for the A3-31 from Hammer. Next, using a long straightedge, I determined that the infeed and outfeed beds were tipped along their lengths toward each other. Hopefully, you are in the range of requiring only small adjustments of a few of the jackscrews. Practical woodworking, not perfection, is the goal. I like the Euro-style safety guard better than the spring-loaded pork chop style. I called Hammer this week in anticipation of this post, and they favorably received my suggestion to update the Setup Guide. And now for the tricky part. Again, the specifics will vary among machines. To my mind, this is like have a concavity along the full length of a jointer plane sole and would make accurate jointing difficult at best. Really you are making the knife arcs consistent with the cutterhead, which previously has been determined to be parallel with the outfeed table. I have received many inquiries, especially regarding setup and adjustment of the Hammer. Copyright infringement is stealing, it is wrong, and it is a crime. Compared to the DeWalt 735 (with a stock cutterhead) at 96 cpi in dimensioning mode and a phenomenal 179 cpi at the slower finishing feed speed, the A3-31s 70 cpi may seem a bit rough but in fact it seems to strike a good balance between producing an excellent surface and working at a good pace. Lets take a detailed look at the Hammer A3-31. its most retracted reading) at several points across the width. Assess this just at the cutterhead-end of the infeed table. If necessary, the blade holder-blade assembly can be adjusted for height with the four adjustment screws within the holder block. It works. One thing that I have not covered in detail is how to make the infeed and outfeed tables parallel to each other along their lengths. Somehow, despite great care on my part, gremlins sneaked in and I had to fiddle with the height adjustment screws to get an a consistent projection across the width. Note that wear of the knife edges may later require very slight adjustment in the overall height of the outfeed table.

In summary: 1. I attached my handwritten notes, made years ago. Note then that I have simply diagrammed similar triangles among the straightedge-table and the pairs of adjustment screws, and calculated the amount of adjustment to be made at the appropriate screws. From the factory, the planing parallelism was within one thou. It is tilted on its short axis only by making equal adjustments on both sides of the table so as not to disturb what was accomplished in step 4. Long ago, I struggled with the old spring-loaded jackscrew system on a jointer. You should not have to adjust from the hinge side for this.] Note that perfection is not necessary for this. The intent here is to explain the overall logic. 2. Heartwood is one of the longest running continuously active woodworking weblogs on the internet, now with 5.1 million visits and 17 million page views (actual human visits, not bots, crawlers, etc.).

Well, it worked out pretty well, maybe actually well enough, but not quite to my satisfaction. The infeed and outfeed tables must be made parallel along their lengths. For most fence positions, the net depth of the unit is about the same with the jointer beds down or raised. In those earlier posts, I referred to geometry without presenting the details. This was a more complicated adjustment involving the pair of bolts on the operator side and a pair of setscrews, accessed under a removable panel, on the hinge side. In summary, the A3-31 can be tuned to a high degree of accuracy. There are some finicky steps for those who want to tune it really well. Legitimate weblog aggregators are welcome to reproduce excerpts, including the opener photo, with the link. On the near side are the M12x1.75 bolts. Aim for the top of the knife arc to be a thou or two above the infeedoutfeed table using the method described in this post. It would be better if the guard was hinged so half of it would hang down when it is adjusted very far toward the user side of the machine but its not in that position too often so it hasnt been a problem. As with any machine, there are a few shortcomings (for this fastidious woodworker), which Ive covered, but this is an excellent machine that can be a great partner as you pursue excellent woodworking. new google.translate.TranslateElement({pageLanguage: 'en', autoDisplay: false}, 'google_translate_element'); You want them parallel or, if anything, a trace tipped away from each other (like an A). Heres how the A3-31 stacks up in this regard. Wow! Here is a practical and accurate method applicable to most machines. [For the A3-31, this latter adjustment is found under the left side red plate. Ive done the geometry and it works but to write and diagram it is beyond the intent of this post. The hinge feature is present on the companys higher priced models. function googleTranslateElementInit() { However, the parallelism should be retained. If the indicator readings are not consistent across the width, the tilt of the outfeed table on its long axis must be adjusted to make it parallel with the cutterhead. From the back view, you can see that not much sticks out only the rear cutterblock cover. Of course, they are not perfect but if they are pretty good not dished/bumped/twisted more than a few thou then go with what you have. (See the photo above.) I like math so I admit to a bit of joy in working this out, but for those A3-31 owners not so disposed, contact me and Ill try to help. On the hinge side there are M10x1.5 set screws, accessed under the plate cover. The factory settings, which I assessed when the machine was new and the knives were fresh, were excellent; no changes needed!

The arc of the cutting blades must be consistently adjusted relative to the outfeed table. It references an earlier design of the machine and much of the adjustment parts have changed. A slight complaint is that the squareness of the fence to the table cannot be made exactly consistent throughout its full adjustment range and most of its length, probably due to minute errors stacking up.

The gap at the middle was 0.018. I am always delighted to hear fromfellow enthusiasts and anyone exploring fine woodworking. The same outfit that makes Hammer machines also makes the much more expensive Felder line. After the posts on jointer-planer combination machines and the Hammer A3-31, some readers emailed questions about how to align the tables and knives so the jointer does what it is supposed to do produce flat, straight surfaces on wood. [On the A3-31, the two M12 x 1.75 bolts on the handle side under the outfeed table are adjusted. Since the alignment of the outfeed table to the knife arc was fine from the factory, the twist was easily removed by adjusting only the two bolts (see the photo above) on the operator side of the infeed table to make the tables parallel within .001. To make a long story short, I did a little trigonometry to prevent having to do it by trial and error. I figure that the expertise and institutional experience applied to the Felder line must bleed over into the Hammer line. posts on jointer-planer combination machines and the Hammer A3-31, Jointer-planer combination machines, part 6, Jointer-planer combination machines, part 5, Jointer-planer combination machines, part 4. This final installment in the series will discuss changing blades in the Hammer A3-31 and some summary thoughts on jointer-planer combo machines. A Felder 12 jointer-planer lists at over $7000 (ouch, my hand just cramped up at the keyboard), which is more than twice the price of the Hammer A3-31. [On the A3-31, adjust the two M12x1.75 bolts on the handle side under the infeed table. The construction of the aluminum fence makes it very stiff.
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